Womanly. The word means different things to different people. Infashion it’s usually code for clothes for a mature audience insilhouettes that stem from the traditional. Proper wife, mother and ladystuff, but with a tinge of desire.
Riccardo Tisci redefinedthis premise with his incredible fall collection, amplifying thesensuality and subverting the traditional while layering on fantasy,modernity and loads of luxury. There were furs and they were fabulous.
“The collection is about celebrating femininity and the rock woman,”said Tisci after the show. “I’ve been doing the kind of young and morestreet look for so long, and I wanted to experiment with this woman whois feeling more like a woman.”
He created a tension betweenrich romance and powerful tailoring, opening with the former on wispy,buttoned-up silk blouses and skirts with soft pleats and tucks.Increasingly dreamy incarnations of that silhouette came in aleopard-print dress with beautiful butterfly wing motifs on the bust,and a butterfly print blouse with a ruffle in the outline of a heart onthe chest.
As an aggressive contrast to the flou, many of thesoft blouses had stark, linear strips across the shoulder blades.Similar strips and panels — Bauhaus-inspired, according to Tisci —recurred throughout the show, adding potent strokes of color andgeometry to his modernist riffs on knit twinsets and tailoring cut with aForties masculine allure. For example, pale pink strips flanked thehips of charcoal high-waisted trousers worn with a croppeddouble-breasted jacket.
The palette deepened and brightenedthroughout the show on abstract butterfly and snake motifs, leathers andopulent furs which included stunning blonds, deep browns andextravagant printed leopard spots. The show culminated on a darklyseductive note: lean gowns with fitted shell-like tops and black pleatedskirts. Mariacarla Boscono’s bodice was fully embroidered in a rainbowof three-dimensional crystals and paillettes; Kendall Jenner’s wasmolded in purple snakeskin with a butterfly crystal neckline. She lookedall grown-up.
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion