Womanly. The word means different things to different people. Infashion it’s usually code for clothes for a mature audience insilhouettes that stem from the traditional. Proper wife, mother and ladystuff, but with a tinge of desire.

Riccardo Tisci redefinedthis premise with his incredible fall collection, amplifying thesensuality and subverting the traditional while layering on fantasy,modernity and loads of luxury. There were furs and they were fabulous.

“The collection is about celebrating femininity and the rock woman,”said Tisci after the show. “I’ve been doing the kind of young and morestreet look for so long, and I wanted to experiment with this woman whois feeling more like a woman.”

He created a tension betweenrich romance and powerful tailoring, opening with the former on wispy,buttoned-up silk blouses and skirts with soft pleats and tucks.Increasingly dreamy incarnations of that silhouette came in aleopard-print dress with beautiful butterfly wing motifs on the bust,and a butterfly print blouse with a ruffle in the outline of a heart onthe chest.

As an aggressive contrast to the flou, many of thesoft blouses had stark, linear strips across the shoulder blades.Similar strips and panels — Bauhaus-inspired, according to Tisci —recurred throughout the show, adding potent strokes of color andgeometry to his modernist riffs on knit twinsets and tailoring cut with aForties masculine allure. For example, pale pink strips flanked thehips of charcoal high-waisted trousers worn with a croppeddouble-breasted jacket.

The palette deepened and brightenedthroughout the show on abstract butterfly and snake motifs, leathers andopulent furs which included stunning blonds, deep browns andextravagant printed leopard spots. The show culminated on a darklyseductive note: lean gowns with fitted shell-like tops and black pleatedskirts. Mariacarla Boscono’s bodice was fully embroidered in a rainbowof three-dimensional crystals and paillettes; Kendall Jenner’s wasmolded in purple snakeskin with a butterfly crystal neckline. She lookedall grown-up.

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