A killer creative instinct has put Riccardo Tisci at the top of hisgame. His last show was a blockbuster. His influence continues to seeponto the runways of others and has trickled down to the mainstream — seethe explosion of designer sweatshirts and bomber jackets everywhere.Maintaining that level of intrigue and celebration takes more thancommercial hits and insider hype; self-awareness is crucial.
“I’mnot saying leave it, but I want to move on from the print, which is asuccess. I want to just explore a new world,” Tisci said backstage afterhis spectacular spring show, which featured virtually no prints — noBambi, no panthers — nor a single sweatshirt. For his new direction, hesummoned his fascination with Japanese and African cultures,intertwining their indigenous traditions of dress for a collection thatpulsed with elegant female power.
It started off on a quiet,natural note with a bare-faced, dark-haired model in a tawny drapedjersey dress with a pleated harness neckline and a sporty, elasticdetail at the waist. Tisci built on the sultry draping, enhancing withwoven leather harnesses, layering in silk tailoring with a soft kimonoinfluence, and coursing through a rich, earthy palette of oranges,taupes, red, black and navy. All of the models wore flat sandals, andsome had their faces painted like colorful sequined masks to underscorethe ongoing tribal sensibility, which was handled with the utmostmodernity. It came in evocative draping, Masai-like corded details andraw, feathered capes. It showed through, too, in the exquisite finale: aseries of glamour goddess gowns cut with wide strips over the breasts,and a skirt of sunburst pleats that opened into a rainbow of graphicsequins.
Tisci showed it all in a circular setting anchored by acurious installation — a pileup of smashed and steaming Mercedes, atenuous allusion to the clash of different cultures. The show openedwith the stirring tribal percussions of Sing Sing Rhythms, with KanyeWest and the recently blonde Kim Kardashian making their first officialpost-baby public appearance. In other words, the clothes had amplecompetition for attention. And yet the fashion trumped all.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty