A killer creative instinct has put Riccardo Tisci at the top of hisgame. His last show was a blockbuster. His influence continues to seeponto the runways of others and has trickled down to the mainstream — seethe explosion of designer sweatshirts and bomber jackets everywhere.Maintaining that level of intrigue and celebration takes more thancommercial hits and insider hype; self-awareness is crucial.
“I’mnot saying leave it, but I want to move on from the print, which is asuccess. I want to just explore a new world,” Tisci said backstage afterhis spectacular spring show, which featured virtually no prints — noBambi, no panthers — nor a single sweatshirt. For his new direction, hesummoned his fascination with Japanese and African cultures,intertwining their indigenous traditions of dress for a collection thatpulsed with elegant female power.
It started off on a quiet,natural note with a bare-faced, dark-haired model in a tawny drapedjersey dress with a pleated harness neckline and a sporty, elasticdetail at the waist. Tisci built on the sultry draping, enhancing withwoven leather harnesses, layering in silk tailoring with a soft kimonoinfluence, and coursing through a rich, earthy palette of oranges,taupes, red, black and navy. All of the models wore flat sandals, andsome had their faces painted like colorful sequined masks to underscorethe ongoing tribal sensibility, which was handled with the utmostmodernity. It came in evocative draping, Masai-like corded details andraw, feathered capes. It showed through, too, in the exquisite finale: aseries of glamour goddess gowns cut with wide strips over the breasts,and a skirt of sunburst pleats that opened into a rainbow of graphicsequins.
Tisci showed it all in a circular setting anchored by acurious installation — a pileup of smashed and steaming Mercedes, atenuous allusion to the clash of different cultures. The show openedwith the stirring tribal percussions of Sing Sing Rhythms, with KanyeWest and the recently blonde Kim Kardashian making their first officialpost-baby public appearance. In other words, the clothes had amplecompetition for attention. And yet the fashion trumped all.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion