As the saying goes, if it’s not broke, don’t fix it. And by that standard, Frida Giannini just might have taken Gucci down that tricked-out, laced-up but bankable road again. But not this time. Giannini did an about-face, and in her most successful show since joining the company, delivered a clean, polished collection that pulsed with insouciant glamour.
Oh, it felt good. Backstage preshow, Giannini spoke of house icons, specifically those originating in the Seventies and Nineties, two critical and commercial high points for the company. Back then, a sense of relaxed luxury ruled, a feeling Giannini restored through calm, classic colors (white and icy grays, black and loads of earthy browns) and copious ultraluxe materials (suede, beaver fur, napa leather) that combined for a natural, rich effect.
The silhouette was lean but not severe, with daywear devoted to sleek sheaths done in simple folds and Rothko-inspired prints. Even sleeker and sexier were the solid styles razor cut to reveal a flash of flesh here and there. Low-slung pants, some with leather waistlines and slim, crisply creased straight legs that swallowed the platform heels whole, and the thigh-high suede boots — tasteful, not trampy — made a great foundation for the phenomenal outerwear.
Whether a statement-maker with hand-dyed ostrich-feather sleeves or a classic, such as a collarless camel coat tailored to perfection in remarkably non-techy neoprene, the coats served to spotlight the quality and craftsmanship that’s been there all along — if masked beneath the flashy trappings of late. And yet there was ample embellishment throughout, particularly on the cocktail attire, with which Giannini unleashed some rock ’n’ roll attitude. Short black dresses were cut from python-patterned lace and embroidered with dégradé feathers and paillettes, sometimes all at once. She pulled it off with this newfound refinement, nowhere more evident than the revamped Gucci logo — two gold, curvilinear interlocking Gs, originally designed in 1973 — that appeared on a few pants but mostly the lush handbags, which, as overt marketing and status emblems go, was sleek and discreet.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
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24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews