“Aristographic,” read the show notes. The word properly summed upFrida Giannini’s spring collection for Gucci. Before the show, she saidshe’d been inspired by Richard Avedon, specifically his portraits ofsuch women as Marella Agnelli, Talitha Getty and Gloria Vanderbilt. Shedidn’t mention Yves Saint Laurent, whose influence appeared in vibrantcolors; some lean, tailored day clothes, and the recurring motif of boldlarge-scale ruffles that defined the silhouette while providing thecollection’s primary embellishment.

The mood was at once spare and flamboyant, retro but notimpossibly so. That is, if women buy into the suggestion of a tunic overmatching fluid pants, “a new pajama,” Giannini said. She showed itagain and again, sometimes with abundant, tiered ruffles running downthe sleeves, sometimes with cutout backs. The unfussy femininity madefor a polished bridge between sportswear and a suit. And if the lookrang a little too 1972 (or a little too loud: head-to-toe azalea) totake significant flight for day, it presented a distinctive way to dressfor evening. By definition, a hyper-focused collection, as has becomestandard throughout fashion today, is lean on options, as proved thecase here, though Giannini diversified a bit with a python jacquard(yea!) and a giant sea anemone print (nay). Her other evening optionworked beautifully: linear but loosened columns — black, white andbrights — that infused high glamour with confident ease.

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