Was it an audition? If so, Haider Ackermann may or may not get the job,but he certainly aced the assignment. The job, of course is that ofChristian Dior creative director, for which Ackermann’s name has beenamong those bandied about.
If Ackermann’s sensibility is more inkeeping with the house codes of Yves Saint Laurent than Christian Dior(an ironic reality given all the succession/replacement/appointmentsupposition dominating the conversation this season), who knows whatcriteria Bernard Arnault and Sidney Toledano will take to theirdecision-making process? This is certain: Ackermann’s collection wasstellar. He opened with an exploration of the smoking, delivered in leanlayers and intricate cuts, and toughened up with demonstrative slashes,straps and belts; the precise vests, jackets and coats keeping companywith fluid silks, some extended into floating trains. The specificityand clarity of thought were all the more impressive given theconsiderable diversity of the lineup.
Ackermann moved from blackand white to color to breathtaking effect. He encrusted a black coat inpinkish-copper from the hips down, an alluring topper for slim pants.From there the hues became more mesmerizing, whether in deep, moodymixes of blues and greens, sometimes three tones in concert, or workedfor greater contrast as in a blue satin halter over high-shine maroonpants. Most significant, this is the kind of color to really get excitedabout, the kind that will look as rich and chic off the runway as on.
That’s true of virtually the entire collection, a few provocativecutouts low on the hips notwithstanding. Along the way Ackerman didsomething increasingly rare these days, delivering genuinesophistication with an overlay of edge.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty