Extraordinary! With the collection he showed on Saturday morning, HaiderAckermann continued on his trajectory of awe. His show captivated withbeauty as it intrigued, on one level with a moody aura, and on another,with extreme complications of cut (surely a pattern maker’s nightmare).The combination made for a fashion lover’s delight.

Ackermann’swork is both cerebral and sexy. Abandoning last spring’s more casual“rockabilly barons,” for fall he telegraphed a message of power-chicfueled covertly by both dark and artful undercurrents. A lean, evensevere silhouette dominated, sometimes cinched with a sharply geometriccorset belt. Ackermann delivered the look while incorporating seriousvolume — short, thick jackets bunched in back over slim skirts, a silkblouse with a wool yoke and billowing sleeves, and an almost obsessivefascination with the lower torso. This resulted in meticulously tieredand sculpted peplums, buttress-like hip adornments and leathers thatpushed out from the waist to be cut away into dramatic front tails, asif commissioned for the archetypal cinematic glamour villainess.Ackermann softened it up beautifully, with abundant hooded coats andsome languid dresses, including several gathered in front for a capeleteffect. And throughout, he worked his color magic, playing groups ofrich oranges, reds, blues and purples against earthy neutrals.

Mostlooks had a lot going on, and were studied for sure. But not a pieceappeared overwrought or gratuitous. Still, for his final look, Ackermannrepressed his yen for structure with an utterly unfettered long-sleevedpurple dress, folded discreetly at the shoulders. Simply stunning.

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