Challenging fashion — in the home stretch of fall 2014, it’s fair to say the season could use more of it.
Haider Ackermann challenges. He challenges himself, he challenges us,he challenges his customers. This time, he sought to “find a kind ofgracefulness in the masculinity,” he said after his show. “It’scomplicated, because masculine is about force and about strength, and Iwas trying to find this kind of delicateness and gracefulness. And acertain simplicity as well.”
On the last point, the change wasdramatic — and not without commercial significance. Over the pastcouple of seasons, Ackermann has decreased the signature complicationsof his clothes, tempering but not eliminating the wraps, drapes, pilingsand floating appendages. Here: Gone. Nary a chiffon floater in sight.In their place: tone-on-tone silhouettes flush with the power of plain.He opened with a gray flannel top and wide trousers under a matchingcoat, the look’s linear-but-loose, floor-sweeping proportionsestablishing the very specific template for what was to come:funnel-neck dresses, jumpsuits, coat-over-pants looks, all in mannish,winter-weight fabrics and completely unadorned by anything other thanthe occasional textural of a graphic houndstooth. Breaking up thisstark, tailored polish, sportier looks were anchored by hoodies andbombers that, under Ackermann’s care, took on newfound toniness. Onefeatured a sleeveless man-tailored vest over fur jacket over hoodie in amasterful take on layering that managed not to turn bulky. With theselooks, Ackermann varied his silhouette, at times cinching the waist witha wide belt and replacing the full-cut trousers with skinnyalternatives.
As for the challenging aspect, Ackermann achievedhis desired fusion of masculine gentleness within a men’s-inspiredframework while simplifying the clothes without losing himself in theprocess. Yet surface simplicity should not be confused with easy. Hisclothes radiated a grandeur — hauteur, even — antithetical to much ofcurrent fashion and lifestyle and intended for women unafraid of thesubversive side of timeless chic. Challenging indeed.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews