“A handsome woman.” Not feeling the compliment, ladies? Allow Haider Ackermann to change your minds.
The designer’s riveting collection celebrated that genre of unfussywoman to exquisite effect. “I love to talk about handsome women,”Ackermann said after the show. “There is a duality. They were lost andthey were on their way. It feels like they were walking forever on thosehighways. And the clothes are tripping and falling and fainting, and Ithink that’s a beautiful mood.”
Vague backstory aside, this wasreally about beautiful clothes delivered in Ackermann’s artfullayerings, even as he continued the relative simplification he startedfor fall. It was anchored in tailoring, most looks featuring a leanjacket with narrow lapels that showed Ackermann to be a savvy student —but not mimic — of Saint Laurent.
One of the hallmarks ofAckermann’s work is that it looks genuinely new, inclusive of referencebut free of retro. His perfectly cut jackets were worn over diaphanousskirts or pants, and sometimes both, the former worn over the latter.While some such long dresses were mere veils of chiffon, others hadskirts finely pleated for linear volume and graceful movement.
Ackermann worked in black played against high-shine incarnations ofrich, dark tones — bronze, sapphire, purple. Yet he mixed in shots ofwhite, in both tailoring and a gem of a wide schmatta over pants.
And as if to answer past criticism that his pilings can turn toocomplicated, he interjected two moments of pure minimalism: along-sleeve off-the-shoulder gown and a strapless jumpsuit, both inblack. These didn’t seem out of place, but played beautifully into themesmerizing whole.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)