The show notes said “Astaire Case or Obstacle Course,” the random man-made rain shower on the runway suggested Gene Kelly, and, as for the golf cart, who knows? Either way, Isaac Mizrahi’s set was a bit of a set-up — alas, there was no singing or dancing in the rain — but one that charmed as much as it confused. And there was more charm and less confusion when it came to the clothes.
There, the angle was obvious: Mizrahi sent out an upbeat ode to Yves Saint Laurent, stocked with all kinds of witty takes on the tuxedo. Jackets, cut with wide shoulders, came classic, cropped and chopped. One was shown as a great sleeveless silk shirt for day, others were turned out in sequins for night. Pants, meanwhile, were of the mannish variety, wide-leg pleated and cuffed. Yet there was plenty of Victoria to Mizrahi’s tailored Victor in bustier tops, silk skirts swirled into rosettes and black-and-white evening confections steeped in chic.
Styled up with cardboard boaters and deconstructed Oxfords, the collection had more than a mere note of nostalgia. But lest Mizrahi get lost in homage and sentimentality, a colorful interlude of sexy cocktail shakers, sequined and fringed, not to mention a wacky lobster shoulder accessory, reminded everyone whose house they were in.