Isaac Mizrahi is a copy cat and proud of it. His spring collection was called IM Xerox and opened with a series of simple whites — a shift, a wrap coat — printed with tromp l’oeil pockets, buttons and lapels, as if they had been produced at Kinko’s. It was his amusing take on 3-D in 2-D, which continued on dresses, long and short, in black-and-white floral grid prints followed by the vivid, full-color versions.
Mizrahi is a master of the witty design gag and makes it work by grounding the clothes in classic uptown whimsy, here in a glamorous throwback. A Saint Laurent jacket and cropped, polka dot pant was paired with a sheer tulle shirt and Peter Pan collar necklace. Little cocktail dresses — strapless and fitted with a sweetheart neck — were veiled with a sheer organza overlay, part of the collection’s major transparency moment. Some were pinned with a silk flower, others worn with necklaces shaped like shirt collars that gave the look a chic sense of humor. The best were decorated with sequin polka dots, one of Mizrahi’s most beloved motifs along with paillettes and flowers. The former crescendoed down the front of sleeveless sheaths in peachy pink and black, and the latter appeared as beautiful silver embroidery on a sheer wrap dress and a tank gown, both seriously elegant.