For those who thought Jason Wu’s pre-fall collection — tougher, morestructured — might have signaled a lasting shift in the designer’sdirection, think again. Fall found Wu squarely back in the pretty,polished fold, his bread-and-butter currency thus far. But there weresavvy lessons picked up from that hard-edged detour, namely,terrifically meaty sportswear and a healthy dose of men’s wearinfluences: ascot-collared shirts, lush angora coats, tuxedo jackets andan excellent hooded wool parka. Most importantly, while youngerdesigners often fall into one of two sportswear traps, tricked-out ordishwater dull, Wu worked a fine balance of quiet intrigue, mostly viacombinations that worked a subtle artisiness — a plaid traveler coatpaired with a striped sweater and sequined draped skirt, for instance. 

 

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