There was no gong, but between the drums on the sound track and theForbidden City doors that opened the runway, no one was left guessing atJason Wu’s fall theme. “An Asian person doing an Asian collection. It’sa revolution,” cracked Wu at a preview the day before his show, notingthat he did not decide to go there thematically because — news flash —China is booming. “It’s been booming for a long time,” said thedesigner, who lived in Taiwan until age nine and went back a year agofor the first time since starting his business.
In allseriousness, tackling Asia was a risk. Wu broke his heritage into threeparts — Mao military, Qing dynasty and the Forties Hollywood glamour of“Shanghai Express” — shown in consecutive order with a through-line ofsleekly tailored strength. If not handled carefully such archetypes canquickly morph into their down-market relative, otherwise known as acliché. Wu handled all with calculated polish and savvy commerciality.Any costume-y flourishes were intentional, i.e. the fringed hat toppedwith a pearl ornament. Other than that, this was Wu’s most severe andsophisticated work yet. A belted, army green puffy jacket was quilted atthe shoulders with a black lace overlay everywhere else except the bigmilitary pockets. Opulent embroideries, fur sleeves and collars infusedthe sharp tailoring with a regal air. Variations on the cheongsam dress,which is particularly prime for parody, were beautiful precision-cutsheaths, some with alluring keyhole necklines, others with lavishembroideries. For evening, Wu recharged a Golden Age glamour silhouettewith a strong shoulder, high neck and lean skirt that draped around thebody with a dramatic slit. It looked great in silk devoré velvet.
Askedif this was his most elaborate collection to date, Wu replied, “It’s mymost luxurious.” Working on his Target collection, in stores now, gavehim a new respect for what he considers true luxury. So he pushedhimself with the fit, the tailoring and the little things. Details, likethe sheared mink worked into embroideries, the technical, thermallining in the jackets and the brocade detail under the toe of a peep-toepump, were impossible to appreciate as models flew by.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty