Jason Wu is banking on this winter not being an aberration. “It’sjust so cold outside, all you want are clothes that are bigger and cozybut that hug the body underneath and are chic, too,” he said before hisshow. “Couture meets North Face.”

Though double hyperbole, thepoint was well taken as Wu delivered a lineup of dressed-up clothes withan emphasis on sturdy outerwear in large-over-lean proportions. If abit flat at times, the prevailing mood was smart, updated power-chic.Rounded-shouldered jackets and coats were cut amply and tapered towardthe hips; metal bar closures (Wu’s take on “Velcro”) provided graphicdecoration. Beneath, some clothes skimmed the body while others featuredlanguid tailoring. Wu paid a great deal of attention to his cuts,splicing and seaming for subtle distinction.

Texture was hisother major statement. An astrakhan-inspired embroidery adorned dressesand separates while the outerwear came in combinations of skins, fabricsand furs. Among the hits: a black double-faced peacoat with shearlingcollar and a lilac alpaca coat with raccoon collar.

Eveningworked the artful side of languid, “a new way to work with the bodything,”  Wu said. Perhaps so, but his embroidered chiffon gowns owed aconsiderable debt to Donna Karan. These were lovely and refined in theirsensual allure.

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