Carolyn Murphy opened Jason Wu’s spring show, all piercing blue eyes, slicked-back blonde hair and buff, bronzed limbs. Dressed in a croc-embossed leather sheath — short and tight with a sheer panel that revealed a corset construction — and a pair of pumps, she could have walked out of a Helmut Newton photograph. Seldom cryptic in his references, Wu did indeed invoke Newton as his primary inspiration, cross-pollinated with nods to Lillian Bassman.


Anytime a show opens with a vintage model, there’s a statement; in this case, the designer flagged his deliberate move in a more womanly direction. With the launch of his contemporary collection Miss Wu, he now has a separate outlet for his young, playful side. Still, riffing on the hyper-specific, sexually charged stylings of Newton was risky. The S&M aesthetic is way outside Wu’s comfort zone, which skewed decidedly ladylike and romantic. In fact, until now, the squeaky-clean, baby-faced Wu had offered scant indication that he has a naughty side. Consider spring his season of innocence lost, in a way that wouldn’t embarrass his mother.

To access this article, click here to subscribe or to log in.

To Read the Full Article
SUBSCRIBE NOW

Tap into our Global Network

Of Industry Leaders and Designers

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus