For spring, Jason Wu sought to explore “the relationship ofconstruction with ease.” After two seasons of overt power-woman audacity(including a soupcon of Helmut Newton), he was wise to let the air inand the seams out. This collection felt lighter and more genuine to theinnate prettiness on which Wu leapt to fame — but at a price. Appealingthough it was, the collection lacked evidence of the experimentation onehopes for from a still-young designer.

Wu’s relaxed mood stopped well short of slouchy, realized insteadin languid but still shapely lines. Often, half-corsets in back addedprovocation as well as structure. He favored a calm palette of sandyneutrals (beiges, tobaccos) and gentle shots of color — pale sage, blush— and a casual attitude that recalled the sporty chic of Calvin Klein.  

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