Unless all of the fashion-fascinated money guys, luxury ceo’s,retailers andwell-heeled women who claim to love fashion are crazy,Raf Simons is going to bejust fine. Because he is, quite simply, oneof the world’s very best designers.He creates some of the mostinnovative, provocative and chic clothes out there.And, oh yes, did wemention wearable? If his aesthetic can’t thrive in theindustry’scurrent reality, then fashion has become, like U.S. politics, way toopolarized — the luxury giants dominant at one end, feisty fast (andcheap)fashion at the other, with serious alternative voices strugglingto be allowedto stand for something nobler than brand-building.
OnSaturday afternoon,Simons closed his Jil Sander chapter (as the house’sfounder prepares for herreturn) with a tour de force, one that provedhow captivating calm clothes canbe. Arriving at the white space thatlast season transformed so magically into acolorful rock garden,audience members found the set anchored by six largesquare pillars,white on the bottom and acrylic on top, where they were filledwithdense arrangements of 65 flower varieties — orchids, roses, tulips —doneby Mark Colle of Antwerp. One could not miss the contrast of theirromantic,even retro, abundance with the spare, minimalist casings.
Whilethe bouquetsdefinitely heralded pretty (and the notion of modernityinformed by the past),their preserved look might have signaled amournful collection. Not at all.Rather, Simons made his final Sanderstatement one of positive beauty, gentleand refined. He opened withdouble-faced clutch coats (literally — the girlsgrasped the fabricclosed) — pale pink and dove gray, tobacco and bright pink —with theunmistakable air of late-Fifties couture. He then went into a veritabledissertation on innovating the lingerie reference. Though intricatelyconstructed, dresses, many in powdery makeup shades, combined tones andtextureswith visual ease. (The knits amazed.) Even substantial foldsof PVC lookedlovely rather than aggressive. The elegance continued atnight withbare-shoulder beauties, both dresses and pants.
Asfor the couture aura,Simons has worked such inspiration for severalseasons. Intentionally or not, hesigned off from Sander with themessage that he could pull off not only eleganteveningwear but hautewith the currency to work by day.
And on the way out,he didn’tdo Jil Sander (the person) any favors.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty