Unless all of the fashion-fascinated money guys, luxury ceo’s,retailers andwell-heeled women who claim to love fashion are crazy,Raf Simons is going to bejust fine. Because he is, quite simply, oneof the world’s very best designers.He creates some of the mostinnovative, provocative and chic clothes out there.And, oh yes, did wemention wearable? If his aesthetic can’t thrive in theindustry’scurrent reality, then fashion has become, like U.S. politics, way toopolarized — the luxury giants dominant at one end, feisty fast (andcheap)fashion at the other, with serious alternative voices strugglingto be allowedto stand for something nobler than brand-building.
OnSaturday afternoon,Simons closed his Jil Sander chapter (as the house’sfounder prepares for herreturn) with a tour de force, one that provedhow captivating calm clothes canbe. Arriving at the white space thatlast season transformed so magically into acolorful rock garden,audience members found the set anchored by six largesquare pillars,white on the bottom and acrylic on top, where they were filledwithdense arrangements of 65 flower varieties — orchids, roses, tulips —doneby Mark Colle of Antwerp. One could not miss the contrast of theirromantic,even retro, abundance with the spare, minimalist casings.
Whilethe bouquetsdefinitely heralded pretty (and the notion of modernityinformed by the past),their preserved look might have signaled amournful collection. Not at all.Rather, Simons made his final Sanderstatement one of positive beauty, gentleand refined. He opened withdouble-faced clutch coats (literally — the girlsgrasped the fabricclosed) — pale pink and dove gray, tobacco and bright pink —with theunmistakable air of late-Fifties couture. He then went into a veritabledissertation on innovating the lingerie reference. Though intricatelyconstructed, dresses, many in powdery makeup shades, combined tones andtextureswith visual ease. (The knits amazed.) Even substantial foldsof PVC lookedlovely rather than aggressive. The elegance continued atnight withbare-shoulder beauties, both dresses and pants.
Asfor the couture aura,Simons has worked such inspiration for severalseasons. Intentionally or not, hesigned off from Sander with themessage that he could pull off not only eleganteveningwear but hautewith the currency to work by day.
And on the way out,he didn’tdo Jil Sander (the person) any favors.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)