Not content to dwell only in the rarefied worlds of the English gentry and libertines he pursued for Dior, John Galliano indulged his grungier side in an exotic curry of a collection for his own line. It was a nomadic journey of epic proportions — especially when it came to the boiled wool skirts erect with stiff folds that could double as a yurt, should you find yourself stranded on the Mongolian tundra. If the practical uses for the collection’s more outré fare, which also included fur utility belt skirts slung below the hips, were few, it made for fun theater, complete with a glitter-spewing runway.

Galliano borrowed from regions far and wide — Asia, Egypt, Turkey and England, to create jumbles of ethnic pilings, among which were some real wearable things. For day, there were robust peasants in hefty combinations of fur coats, striped flannel military jackets, floral harem pants and embroidered skirts. With their faces bronzed and painted and slicked hair topped with exaggerated black bow headpieces, the girls were rough and tumble until Galliano lightened up with wispy bias-cut gowns. And there was a new, romantic, if not always winning, way with fur — beautiful on a rosette coat, but a little barbaric on some of the silk gowns.

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