Saunders’ restrained, neutral-toned fall lineup now seems like a palate cleanser; it was only a matter of time before he returned to his splashy kaleidoscopic self. The delightful spring collection Saunders showed on Sunday offered a downright explosion of high-gloss azures, scarlets and greens worked into dolled-up military jackets over frothy skirts, which played like a parade of pretty, playful majorettes. And if they occasionally marched toward Balenciaga, no matter; here was a more girlish take on the motif. Still, no girl likes to be structured all the time. Thus, Saunders softened up with breezy silk dresses and two stunning column gowns. One thing’s for sure. We can’t wait to see what Saunders has up his sleeve for his debut at Pollini in Milan.

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