Jonathan Saunders created a naïve, offbeat mood with this collection, which read more conceptual than commercial.

Among the more challenging looks were stiff wool coats withexaggerated, puffy shoulders, randomly patched with squares ofcontrasting fabric in deep red, gray and camel. There were also shiftdresses crafted from swatches of navy pinstripes, maroon and sky bluefabric, accessorized with severe pointed heels and tan tights.

The models’ pink-rimmed eyes, wan faces and determined gait heightenedthe unsettling quality of the show, as did a set consisting of stacks ofold loudspeakers and TVs flickering with static.

But amidst theexperimental fare were some more approachable takes on Saunders’ ideas:a long bias-cut dress done in a checkerboard pattern of gold devorévelvet; a series of oversize, heavy wool sweaters. One ensemble — a bigmint-blue and gray sweater paired with a bias dress in silver Lurex —telegraphed a glamorous cool.

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