Rising fashion star Jonathan Anderson moved his conceptual minimalismin a more earthy direction for fall. “A woman from the land,” he musedbackstage. “Something imperfect.”

The designer is a thinker, andhe conjured a new mood with his sculptural cutting, employing a rangeof robust and humble materials — not to mention some strange andartificial ones. He also experimented with long and envelopingsilhouettes that brought to mind medieval times one minute, theFlintstones the next.

Wide-wale corduroy is an unlikely andunsexy fabric for a bustier, but Anderson worked the idea by layeringthe look over blousy tops with twisted sleeves, and pairing them withlong, spiraling gored skirts. The latter were distinctive and newlooking — items fans like Leigh Lezark, who sat front row, will likelyzero in on next season.

Anderson is still a raw talent. Eventhough he now has a powerful partner in French luxury giant LVMH, whichbought a 46 percent stake in his London-based house and hired him tolead Loewe, his clothes can at times seem haphazard. But there’s nothingout there like them, and they nudge fashion forward. His tunics withoff-kilter necklines slithering off one shoulder were undeniablyromantic. And the rough-hewn gowns, some with a sash of twistedshearling across the bosom, provided a jolt of stark glamour.

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