Rising fashion star Jonathan Anderson moved his conceptual minimalism in a more earthy direction for fall. “A woman from the land,” he mused backstage. “Something imperfect.”
The designer is a thinker, and he conjured a new mood with his sculptural cutting, employing a range of robust and humble materials — not to mention some strange and artificial ones. He also experimented with long and enveloping silhouettes that brought to mind medieval times one minute, the Flintstones the next.
Wide-wale corduroy is an unlikely and unsexy fabric for a bustier, but Anderson worked the idea by layering the look over blousy tops with twisted sleeves, and pairing them with long, spiraling gored skirts. The latter were distinctive and new looking — items fans like Leigh Lezark, who sat front row, will likely zero in on next season.
Anderson is still a raw talent. Even though he now has a powerful partner in French luxury giant LVMH, which bought a 46 percent stake in his London-based house and hired him to lead Loewe, his clothes can at times seem haphazard. But there’s nothing out there like them, and they nudge fashion forward. His tunics with off-kilter necklines slithering off one shoulder were undeniably romantic. And the rough-hewn gowns, some with a sash of twisted shearling across the bosom, provided a jolt of stark glamour.