What with his Versus collaboration last spring and reported interestfrom luxury giant LVMH, Jonathan Anderson has seen his fashion profileskyrocket. His spring collection delivered on his reputation as London’snew-ideas man. Anderson delved deeper into the conceptual minimalismhe’s been developing for the past few seasons, here with a pronouncedinfluence from the Comme des Garçons family.

He started with therelatively feminine: sheer baby-doll tops and long skirts — one white,one black — that were banded to create soft tiers of blouson pleating.From there, Anderson built “textural landscapes” that teased the eye.

“Isit leather, is it silk, is it organza? ” he asked backstage. In fact,all of those fabrics made appearances, as well as nylon and pleather.They were sculpted into 3-D chevron pleats and puckers on stiff tops andwrap skirts that were short in back, long in front. The more engineeredfabrics had a DIY finish to them. (After all, Anderson doesn’t haveluxury conglomerate support yet.)

There were great moments ofstrange beauty, often quite wearable, too. A seersucker column gown withan exaggerated obi belt was striking, and printed sequin skirts werepretty. Everything was worn with leather shower sandals — the sensibleshoe of the season.

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