Koi Suwannagate worked spring’s wanderlust, not to mention her Thai heritage, to breathtaking effect. The old Thai love story “Four Kingdoms” lent the lineup its romantic vibe, while traditional fabrics provided authenticity. Suwannagate approached the Thai government for help in procuring local talent. Thus, artist Nipon Sinewngam painted the intricate lotus prints on a gorgeous off-the-shoulder gown while Thai labels Tango Leather and Prinn Jewelry provided the shoes and fine jewelry. (She even flew in a few top models from Bangkok.) Suwannagate supplied plenty of arty-yet-controlled craftsmanship herself, best seen in the cashmere jacket cutaway lotus embroidery and an enchanting crinkled silk chiffon frock, with hand-crochet appliqués. Ultimately, the designer proved she could riff off the ethnic and the exotic without losing her modern touch. One such example: the structured sheer organza blazer subtly embroidered with the words “The Love of Koi Suwannagate” in Thai.

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