“We’re all about an elegant look,” Alber Elbaz said backstage at Lanvin’s men’s show, his wingman Lucas Ossendrijver nodding approvingly. But then he quickly added that fashion shouldn’t be too perfect, idealized or overly stylized. “It has to look good in life,” Elbaz said.
The show was mainly about tailoring worn in an offhand way, and sportswear — done in the swanky couture fabrics that Elbaz introduced to the men’s universe — given a dressy spin.
Gangly young models passed through a set of doors propped on the runway and headed off purposefully, most of them lugging some rugged, useful bag and looking suave enough to wear the same outfit through their nighttime activities.
The elongated drape jackets, loose trousers, Whipstitch trim and inky colors gave the show a Teddy Boy twang. Lustrous blousons, spongy trenchcoats and parkas were worn with tailored pants for more of a soigné take on casual, even if they were paired with aerodynamic sneakers.
The show climaxed with a series of languid looks in jacquard fabrics, in step with the season’s pajamalike mood, though familiar to the Lanvin universe. Elbaz said he has no problem dialing back the pace of change. “Men are pretty stable,” he shrugged, “even if they’re in fashion.”