“The future’s not ours to see,” Alber Elbaz serenaded the enthralledguests who had just taken in the fall Lanvin fashion show that markedhis 10th anniversary at the house.
The lyrics were particularlyappropriate in this season of volatility elsewhere, and for Elbaz’scareer, in crisis mode in 2001 after his brief tenure at Yves SaintLaurent came to an abrupt end. Few, probably least of all Elbaz himself,would have predicted that little more than a decade later, his starwould be among fashion’s brightest, his success sprung from a delectablecocktail of self-deprecation, incredible talent and an oft-statedbelief in exactly who comes first. “I do not design for journalists,”Elbaz loves to say. “I design for women.” And we believe him. He livesthe mantra season after season — even if the gentleman doth protest toomuch on the matter of his work’s editorial resonance.
On Fridaynight, Elbaz threw a party — a fashion party and a party party. Settingup the latter, after the show, the set backdrop opened to reveal thedesigner onstage with a band, above them an immense glitteringchandelier anchoring a network of lights strung up with little apparentregard for perfection. After Elbaz took his bow and Joey Arias finishedthe song, the party was on. A genuine sense of warmth and happiness forElbaz permeated the event. He has proven himself a soulful member of thefashion community. It’s hard not to like and root for him. But nice-guystatus only goes so far. Elbaz’s star ascended first and foremostbecause of the clothes, which from the outset struck a chord with womenwho connect on a deeply personal level to their artfully wearable, adultallure.
Typically, an elegant mood defines the designer’srunway. This time, he put that attitude on celebratory sabbatical infavor of a presentation almost manic in its pace and visual stimuli.Luckily, the clothes were beautiful, bold and at times, riotouslyfanciful. And always, they made sense. “The responsibility is no longerjust about making a nice piece,” Elbaz said in a preview. “You have theresponsibility, on one hand, to work on the vision, so you have to bringthe newness, and it also has to have a zipper. How do you work withboth?”
As it turns out, quite well, particularly when one ofyour signatures is a wide, curve-accentuating zipper running down theback of a dress. Elbaz said that he wanted this collection to be neitherretrospective nor one-note. That said, he addressed favorite motifswhile focusing mainly on a curvy silhouette, which he took in numerousdirections. He opened with vibrant body dresses worked in a scuba-worthyfoam that gave structure to peplums and collar frills, and ended withindulgent cocktail wonders in whimsical floral prints he did himself,the looks finished with bright gloves, stoles, plastic-and-mirrorsurrealist jewelry and shoes soled in crystals. In between were racyblack leathers, high-glam golden brocades with matching boots, hourglasslooks with monster jeweling and a charming left-field party frock onKarlie Kloss. It all made for a wonderful, frenetic romp — one thatshould continue to the selling floor. Joyeux anniversaire, Alber!
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews