Lanvin: Shine. It’s a noun. It’s a verb. It’s a high-gloss surface,and it’s what the cool kids did in middle school. It’s what we wantfashion to help us do, whether literally or symbolically.
AlberElbaz is happy to oblige. For spring he offered an audacious display ofshine — aggressive, even — one that, for all its gloss and glimmer, hadan intriguing dark side.
But then, it was inspired in part by aphotograph of the brocade-clad women, bride included, at an orthodoxJewish wedding in Jerusalem, their grim visages suggestive of unspokenwoes, “everything shining,” the designer said during a preview, “buttheir eyes.”
He thought, too, about the notion of the clothes asmirrors, to reflect the audience. “But that was just the idea. I alsothought, ‘Let’s also bring back regular clothes. Let’s bring sportswear,let’s celebrate the individual.’” And so he did in a collection thatdazzled, literally and otherwise.
Elbaz offered fabulously chicclothes to suit every womanly inclination: refined, sexy, elegant,butch, relaxed — everything but puerile, as his aesthetic isconsummately adult. Sportswear looks were as casual as a trench over atop and skirt; androgynous tailoring paid clear respect to SaintLaurent, and an elastic-waist jumpsuit both celebrated and mocked itsutilitarian roots. Dresses ranged from flappers to sheaths, to aconstructed slip and even a long, dark number that swung Goth.
Unitingthis tremendous diversity: the endless gloss in a vast array of fabrics— 60 of them — multiple textures of lamés, tweeds, laces, brocades andon and on in a glorious spectrum from earthy golds to the most vibrantjewel tones.
It made for a seriously risky move that could haveflopped — even at the high end, shimmer can come off looking cheap.Rather, it all radiated high luxury. Elbaz may be a gentle presence, buthe is one gutsy designer.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty