As an antidote to the lightning pace of the digital universe and the fashion world’s collective on-to-the-next attitude, Marc Jacobs envisioned his collection for Louis Vuitton as an excuse to pause and appreciate what a house like Vuitton is capable of creating. Beautiful bags, such as the fantastic redos of the Vuitton Speedy, were basically guaranteed.
So it was a captivating atmosphere. Shown under a greenhouselike tent surrounding an active fountain in the Cour Carrée du Louvre, and set to the music of “And God Created Woman,” the whole production had a grand retro cinematic air and clothes to match, which was a problem.
Fleshy swimsuit-edition girls, including Laetitia Casta, Elle Macpherson, Bar Refaeli and Adriana Lima, filled out hefty tweed suits, printed wool and chiffon dresses, all nipped at the waist, Fifties-style. “This is Vuitton,” Jacobs said at the mention of the street casting he held for his own show in New York. “Everything is bigger.”
He meant the full scale of things, but could just have easily been referring to the model’s assets, breasts spilling out from wool corsets and hips accentuated by full midlength skirts. But if the fit-and-flare silhouette celebrated womanly beauty, it also showed how dated and unrealistic the look is now. While it was all luxuriously crafted, the weighty fabrics, skirt lengths and volumes managed to turn the world’s biggest sexpots into dowdy matrons at times. Coats made better use of the sturdy construction, and stellar knits, such as a yellow sweater cabled out of sequins, delivered the collection’s few fresh, younger moments.
It was a rare misstep for Jacobs, but it goes to show that, in today’s accelerated world, there’s no time to rewind. But the handbags were worth slowing down for. Jacobs singled out Vuitton’s 80-year-old Speedy bag, originally known as the Express, as the focus of his high-quality chase, here, put to good use. He exercised the atelier’s talents by reimagining the bag in flocked and sequined monograms, cloque, lace and Damier checks re-created in fox fur and hand-painted croc — incredible treatments that flaunted the workmanship and made a new classic for every type of tony LV lady.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)