As an antidote to the lightning pace of the digital universe and the fashion world’s collective on-to-the-next attitude, Marc Jacobs envisioned his collection for Louis Vuitton as an excuse to pause and appreciate what a house like Vuitton is capable of creating. Beautiful bags, such as the fantastic redos of the Vuitton Speedy, were basically guaranteed.
So it was a captivating atmosphere. Shown under a greenhouselike tent surrounding an active fountain in the Cour Carrée du Louvre, and set to the music of “And God Created Woman,” the whole production had a grand retro cinematic air and clothes to match, which was a problem.
Fleshy swimsuit-edition girls, including Laetitia Casta, Elle Macpherson, Bar Refaeli and Adriana Lima, filled out hefty tweed suits, printed wool and chiffon dresses, all nipped at the waist, Fifties-style. “This is Vuitton,” Jacobs said at the mention of the street casting he held for his own show in New York. “Everything is bigger.”
He meant the full scale of things, but could just have easily been referring to the model’s assets, breasts spilling out from wool corsets and hips accentuated by full midlength skirts. But if the fit-and-flare silhouette celebrated womanly beauty, it also showed how dated and unrealistic the look is now. While it was all luxuriously crafted, the weighty fabrics, skirt lengths and volumes managed to turn the world’s biggest sexpots into dowdy matrons at times. Coats made better use of the sturdy construction, and stellar knits, such as a yellow sweater cabled out of sequins, delivered the collection’s few fresh, younger moments.
It was a rare misstep for Jacobs, but it goes to show that, in today’s accelerated world, there’s no time to rewind. But the handbags were worth slowing down for. Jacobs singled out Vuitton’s 80-year-old Speedy bag, originally known as the Express, as the focus of his high-quality chase, here, put to good use. He exercised the atelier’s talents by reimagining the bag in flocked and sequined monograms, cloque, lace and Damier checks re-created in fox fur and hand-painted croc — incredible treatments that flaunted the workmanship and made a new classic for every type of tony LV lady.
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye