As an antidote to the lightning pace of the digital universe and the fashion world’s collective on-to-the-next attitude, Marc Jacobs envisioned his collection for Louis Vuitton as an excuse to pause and appreciate what a house like Vuitton is capable of creating. Beautiful bags, such as the fantastic redos of the Vuitton Speedy, were basically guaranteed.
So it was a captivating atmosphere. Shown under a greenhouselike tent surrounding an active fountain in the Cour Carrée du Louvre, and set to the music of “And God Created Woman,” the whole production had a grand retro cinematic air and clothes to match, which was a problem.
Fleshy swimsuit-edition girls, including Laetitia Casta, Elle Macpherson, Bar Refaeli and Adriana Lima, filled out hefty tweed suits, printed wool and chiffon dresses, all nipped at the waist, Fifties-style. “This is Vuitton,” Jacobs said at the mention of the street casting he held for his own show in New York. “Everything is bigger.”
He meant the full scale of things, but could just have easily been referring to the model’s assets, breasts spilling out from wool corsets and hips accentuated by full midlength skirts. But if the fit-and-flare silhouette celebrated womanly beauty, it also showed how dated and unrealistic the look is now. While it was all luxuriously crafted, the weighty fabrics, skirt lengths and volumes managed to turn the world’s biggest sexpots into dowdy matrons at times. Coats made better use of the sturdy construction, and stellar knits, such as a yellow sweater cabled out of sequins, delivered the collection’s few fresh, younger moments.
It was a rare misstep for Jacobs, but it goes to show that, in today’s accelerated world, there’s no time to rewind. But the handbags were worth slowing down for. Jacobs singled out Vuitton’s 80-year-old Speedy bag, originally known as the Express, as the focus of his high-quality chase, here, put to good use. He exercised the atelier’s talents by reimagining the bag in flocked and sequined monograms, cloque, lace and Damier checks re-created in fox fur and hand-painted croc — incredible treatments that flaunted the workmanship and made a new classic for every type of tony LV lady.
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For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)