It was the most anticipated show of the season, and it marked a seachange: whimsical romance out; chic pragmatism in. As Louis Vuitton’screative mantle passed to Nicolas Ghesquière from Marc Jacobs, thedifference came into sharp focus. Jacobs is an emotional designer,Ghesquière, a cerebral one — a distinction very evident in their work.

Ghesquière’s debut ushered in a new era for one of the moststoried names in luxury. “It’s a balance of newness and heritage at thehouse,” Vuitton chief executive officer Michael Burke said postshow,explaining Ghesquière’s mandate. “Audacity that leads to eternity. Therehas to be a certain sense of timelessness.”

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