If Marc Jacobs was a riotous romp through the Eighties club scene, then this was his girl before she hit her naughty New York streak. Go back a few years and she’s the gawky rebellious teen rummaging through mom’s Annie Hall threads. Thus, the collection worked a piled-on, hodgepodge vibe with silhouettes that were relaxed and oversize. Take, for instance, the mannish herringbone blazer and trousers, layered under a fringe gray shawl and accessorized with a felt hat and fuzzy toggle boots. The English haberdashery-meets-hip-hop mood continued throughout — the latter in the baggy fits and the former, in twill, tweed and corduroy fabrications. Even a sweet bow-neck top took a downtown spin when cut in plaid flannel. In cool counterpoint, Jacobs included pops of bright, kicky color, as seen in the color-block tights. But for all that youthful slant, this was one of the more grown-up and pulled-together outings for Jacobs’ secondary label.
Meanwhile, the men’s wear had surprising polish, though youthful as always. If the Marc boy hasn’t matured per se, he’s definitely gained an interest in sartorial tradition. Perfectly tailored jackets came in tweed and corduroy, a professorial counterpoint to expandable gym pants. Wrinkled silk paisleys and a cardigan with a unique argyle/stripe pattern demonstrated an irreverent awareness of tradition as well as boyish cheek.

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