Chalk it up to the slush-filled streets, but there was something oddly comforting about the Marc by Marc Jacobs runway. Maybe it was the cozy long johns onesie, the adorably oversize boyfriend sweater or the “blanket” jackets and coats in a fall palette of deep browns, khakis and reds. This was less madcap and frisky than usual and, yet, the mood felt right. Playing up the brave-the-weather vibe was a parade of military and outdoorsy workwear offerings, all freshly reproportioned in Jacobs’ kid-sister silhouettes. Army green bloomers paired with a Forties-style blouse winked toward the girlish side while a cherry peajacket, with lumberjack plaids peeking from beneath, came charmingly belted, empire-like. Then somewhere in the middle — look 44, to be exact — arrived a pretty, drop-waist lace blouse in white, which signaled a slight shift in gears. Jacobs’ new destination: cocktail hour for the romantic Bloomsbury-loving set. Highlights here included a gold velvet peony-print dress (cutely matched with Mary Janes) and a black-on-black polkadot frock.
For a while now, the Marc boy has been maturing and cleaning up, and military dress certainly has that effect. But the orderly pieces, such as olive trousers and belted trenchcoats, came along with scoop-neck T-shirts and long, thin cardigans that defined a disheveled, languid attitude. Somber suits, comprised of short blazers and slouchy trousers or cargo pants, had even more youthful chic. Add a cobwebby angora sweater, and the look is anything but standard-issue.