“How can you use this in your work?” said Shrink to Patient. “This”being the wistfulness the latter has felt since Hurricane Sandy forcedhim from his home, to which he has yet to return. The answer camethrough Thursday night. “There was just something about comfort andfamiliarity,” Marc Jacobs said during a preview of his fall collectionthat morning. “It’s very simple, very straightforward, beautiful andnice…glamorous, but [with] a kind of sadness and melancholy. There’s aromance to it.”
In fact, this was perhaps the most overtlyglamorous collection Jacobs has ever done, rendered with a moodygentility that transported it far beyond the banal, his invocation of“familiarity” notwithstanding. With forces of nature on his mind, hecommissioned a Stefan Beckman set inspired by Olafur Eliasson’s “TheWeather Project” at the Tate, a huge hot sun that shone intensely on themodels, their off-beat melancholy mein made more so by choppy shag wigsby the brilliant Guido and their slow, ethereal gait as they made twotrips around the circular poured concrete floor, first under the sun’sdisorienting low-frequency light that removed all color, allowing theaudience to see everything only in blacks, grays and an otherworldlysepia. This trip revealed lean, spare shapes steeped in classics —mannish coats, racy briefs, Aran sweaters and Fair Isles and itemsderived from sleepwear: robe coats and pajamas. “There’s been a lot offlus and viruses; I’ve been coming to work in pajamas and sweatpants,”Jacobs said. “I haven’t put on proper pants all season.” There was alsoplenty of shine that broke through the sun shenanigans.
The lightthen changed to something resembling normal, revealing a gorgeouspalette of neutrals and soft colors — dusty pinks and blues, deep, richburgundys and greens. An artful simplicity reigned, starting with thefabrics; no bonded this nor techno that. Rather, Jacobs opted fortraditional materials of the most luxe sort: double-faced cashmeres andalpacas; refined silks ample fur — beaver, fox, mink. By day there werechic skirt looks and fabulous coats including a gray clutch and a robesilhouette that was stellar twice — in blue alpaca and pink cashmere. Asfor the shine, it came via an embroidered fishnet motif on pajama looksscaled down to sensual proportions, and fox-collared tulle jacketscovered in big, loose, light-as-air paillettes, some oversequined gowns,their lanky lines perfect for — drumroll, please — the red carpet.
Asjust about everyone knows, this show was delayed not in the old-school,hour-or-two manner, but from Monday night to Thursday, due to deliveryissues. Some people weren’t happy, and understandably so. Yet those whowere able to change plans — and the room was packed — surely went awayhappy, having taken in a stellar show. Definitely worth the wait.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty