Emotion courses through Marc Jacobs’ work; it always has. The showJacobs staged on Thursday night was his first since the ending of histenure at Louis Vuitton. His house is now at a critical transition pointas it prepares for an IPO — never a cakewalk, but perhaps even morefraught for a company that has always operated more on gut feeling thantextbook strategy. It’s not surprising then, that emotion raced throughJacobs’ show that brought the New York season to a provocative close.
It was beautiful — chic, unfettered and, typical of Jacobs, a reversalof last season’s dark, highly embellished Victorian melodrama. “There’salways a reaction to the thing before, the idea of wanting to see thingsthat seem fresh and unadorned,” Jacobs said during a preview. “I wantedto keep it very light, very soft, very fresh, and a very neutralpalette with just slight hints of color, cosmetics colors.”
Light in color, soft to the touch. Yet this was no festive romp, but asober illumination, disquieting even, with a subtext of maturation. “Welooked at women like Meryl Streep and Jessica Lange,” Jacobs said.“Women we admire and respect and who have a sort of strength without anyaggressivity, and without it being a discussion about youth.”
The set featured an arrangement of voluptuous clouds — 400soft-sculpture puffs suspended from the Armory rafters. Picture-bookpretty upon arrival, they threw ominous shadows as the show progressed.And on the soundtrack, the Depression-era anthem, really more astatement of resolve than of fact, “Happy Days are Here Again,” given ineerie recitation by Lange.
The barefaced models wore blunt-cutwigs secured with wide headbands, their countenance suggesting turmoilbeneath the serene facade. Spareness ruled in side-slit dresses andtunic-and-pants pairings that strode the Sixties. These came in blocksof soft hues — ivories, pinks, peaches, taupes, browns — withinteresting curved seaming. Jacobs worked in racy, lean ribbed-knittunics over matching stovepipe pants and cozied up the calm with amazingmink bombers in soft degradés of color. The mood grew bolder withhigher-contrast short dresses and over-the-knee boots that had, despitethe stated sartorial platform of nonaggression, a hint of she-warrior.
Still, Jacobs preferred calm over conflict. After a brief moment ofcrystal pizazz, evening turned lyrical with some dresses crafted fromgentle organza tiers and others hand-painted in deft imitation. Eitherway, they were exquisite.
As for the bags, they were mostlyclassic, IPO-friendly shapes in ultraluxurious suede, box calf, ostrich,shirred mink, python. Happy days here again? Fashion wise, through fairand stormy weather, they never left.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews