Emotion courses through Marc Jacobs’ work; it always has. The showJacobs staged on Thursday night was his first since the ending of histenure at Louis Vuitton. His house is now at a critical transition pointas it prepares for an IPO — never a cakewalk, but perhaps even morefraught for a company that has always operated more on gut feeling thantextbook strategy. It’s not surprising then, that emotion raced throughJacobs’ show that brought the New York season to a provocative close.
It was beautiful — chic, unfettered and, typical of Jacobs, a reversalof last season’s dark, highly embellished Victorian melodrama. “There’salways a reaction to the thing before, the idea of wanting to see thingsthat seem fresh and unadorned,” Jacobs said during a preview. “I wantedto keep it very light, very soft, very fresh, and a very neutralpalette with just slight hints of color, cosmetics colors.”
Light in color, soft to the touch. Yet this was no festive romp, but asober illumination, disquieting even, with a subtext of maturation. “Welooked at women like Meryl Streep and Jessica Lange,” Jacobs said.“Women we admire and respect and who have a sort of strength without anyaggressivity, and without it being a discussion about youth.”
The set featured an arrangement of voluptuous clouds — 400soft-sculpture puffs suspended from the Armory rafters. Picture-bookpretty upon arrival, they threw ominous shadows as the show progressed.And on the soundtrack, the Depression-era anthem, really more astatement of resolve than of fact, “Happy Days are Here Again,” given ineerie recitation by Lange.
The barefaced models wore blunt-cutwigs secured with wide headbands, their countenance suggesting turmoilbeneath the serene facade. Spareness ruled in side-slit dresses andtunic-and-pants pairings that strode the Sixties. These came in blocksof soft hues — ivories, pinks, peaches, taupes, browns — withinteresting curved seaming. Jacobs worked in racy, lean ribbed-knittunics over matching stovepipe pants and cozied up the calm with amazingmink bombers in soft degradés of color. The mood grew bolder withhigher-contrast short dresses and over-the-knee boots that had, despitethe stated sartorial platform of nonaggression, a hint of she-warrior.
Still, Jacobs preferred calm over conflict. After a brief moment ofcrystal pizazz, evening turned lyrical with some dresses crafted fromgentle organza tiers and others hand-painted in deft imitation. Eitherway, they were exquisite.
As for the bags, they were mostlyclassic, IPO-friendly shapes in ultraluxurious suede, box calf, ostrich,shirred mink, python. Happy days here again? Fashion wise, through fairand stormy weather, they never left.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews