Hats off! And while you’re at it, ditch the amazing pilings, the mashes of textures and the wistful spirit that made Marc Jacobs’ fall show such a magical fashion moment. Spring, Jacobs said in a preview, would be about restraint. And “very, very brutal. Brutal in its simplicity. That’s our new word for the season.”


If the word was harsher than the reality of the fashion, it accurately described the intensity of the shift. One of the essential marks of Jacobs’ work is his ability to make those giant seasonal moves while retaining every bit of his identity, a trait he shares with Miuccia Prada and not many others. Only a die-hard maximalist would consider his explosion of graphics — rubberized leather leopard prints, micro sequined checkerboards and stripes, stripes, stripes — examples of restraint, but by Jacobs’ standards, they were. They were also highly wearable; no deconstruction necessary to see the real clothes beneath the romance.

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