“This is the way you want to live?” the Leading Player asks Pippin,who has decided to scale down his aspirations in favor of a simplerlife. “No costumes?...And no magic!”
The line resonated deeplywith at least one audience member. “What would life be without [thecostumes, makeup, etc.]?” Marc Jacobs recalled thinking. “Nah, not anordinary life, not interested in that. Let’s do what we love, and do alot of it.”
A lot is exactly what Jacobs showed, and it was extraordinary.
It’stoo tidy to attribute Jacobs’ remarkable closure of the New York seasonon Thursday night to a single Broadway trigger; his thought process andwork are seldom so linear. The show sprung as well from a lamp shade(the braid trim); past collections (Violet Incredible; military)long-invoked influences (Courtney Love) and the feeling that nannyoversight has taken the Goth out of Gotham. “It doesn’t seem likethere’s much decadence anymore,” Jacobs said during a preview. “I’m notallowed to smoke in the park. I’m not allowed to walk my dog in thegrass.” He then thought of instances of brazen self-expression — artistPaul McCarthy’s show at the uptown armory; the Burning Man Festival(even though he’s never been). And why fashion is so obsessed with newand modern. What, if anything, do those concepts mean, and who cares,anyway?
Somehow he fermented all of these swirling thoughts intoa complex treatise on Victorian decadence: dark, dangerous and utterlycompelling. The set, a highly stylized post-catastrophe beach litteredwith debris — broken lifeguard chair; frozen treats fridge; ancient,rusted bus — was designed to look like a stage set midway throughdeconstruction. The opening music, the theme from “Jaws,” got heartsracing beyond the palpitations brought on by the venue’s extreme heat.
Buthere was no wanton beach party. Rather, Jacobs went dark and weighty infact as well as mood, to a degree that flew in the face of traditionalnotions of spring dressing and which, from a merch standpoint, willsurely be controversial. The overall look was opulent, the day clotheseither riffs on old, elegant officers’ jackets worn over re-fabricatedsurf shorts or loose-cut dresses and sweatshirts in thick velours.Evening presented a mesmerizing parade of slightly deranged-lookingVictorian heroines in mourning — their darkness highlighted by intricateembroideries.
Though impossible to detail the work in theseclothes (at least on tight deadline), it is not exaggeration to notethat they approached couture in beauty and craftsmanship. Everything —including bags, moccasins and sandals — was embroidered, sequined,appliquéd, braided and tasseled beyond reason (Jacobs joked that thereisn’t a whorehouse in all of France that could find enough trim for athrow pillow).
But then, as he sees it, fashion is the farthestthing from reason. Is a dress or jacket modern? Is it too dark forspring, too heavy, too this, too that? “It doesn’t matter,” Jacobs said.“All that matters is, do you want it or don’t you? Does it pull at yourheart like fashion is supposed to? Like I said from Pippin, what wouldlife be like without all of this?” So bring it on — the costumes, thetassels, the fringe, the dark magic.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews