Synonymous with bold, digitally generated prints, Mary Katrantzouturned off her computer this season and explored different ways ofdecorating clothes, primarily via lace, brocades, pleats and chain mail.It yielded an intriguing collection that was more approachable andluxurious than ever.

Uniforms were the jumping-off point for theshow. “TNT, DHL, policemen, bankers, butchers,” the Greek designerrattled off backstage. Along with road signs, badges and crests —corporate symbols of belonging — were a particular fixation. Katrantzoulined them up to create very unconventional guipure lace, which she cutinto sweatshirts, minidresses and evening gowns for a surprisinglyfetching effect. The dense, overly busy formations of crystal-fleckedbadges on the front of mink sweatshirts and long, narrow-sleeved gownshad a whiff of recent Valentino.

Amidst all that decoration,some of the plainest clothes were the most striking, including lean wooltopcoats, long skirts in color-blocked knife pleats and chain maildresses, draped on the bias. Katrantzou should unplug more often.

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