Mary Katrantzou RTW Spring 2014

The designer exalted footwear with a collection using men’s brogues, sneakers and elaborate evening pumps as the jumping off point.



Saks Fifth Avenue gave its giant shoe department its own Manhattan zip code. Now Mary Katrantzou exalted footwear with a collection using men’s brogues, sneakers and elaborate evening pumps as the jumping-off point.

Photo prints of the brogues were blown up to woman size or bigger and applied to relatively simple shapes: roomy jackets, jaunty shorts and bubble-shaped bustier dresses.

For the sneaker portion, Katrantzou pushed her techniques to the limit. Scuba dresses and racer-style jackets carried dense layers of photo-realistic prints on Neoprene and mesh — up to 28 panels per dress. Then she added 3-D effects — occasionally printed, occasionally real — including strips of bonded rubber and Velcro straps.

The evening portion was the most convincing, in which Katrantzou interpreted mules Marie Antoinette might have worn into tiny, teacup-shaped dresses carrying heavy crystal embroideries, and ruffles printed with ruffles. Still, finding women bold enough to carry off these densely decorated clothes is something of a Cinderella question.

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