Fashion’s sharp line and shoulder obsession has often been fueled from a dark place. But don’t count Michael Kors, who doesn’t do downers, out of it. “I love architectural attitude,” he said during a preview. “But not in a sad way. She’s not a sad fashion girl.” So Kors’ tidy take on the tailored motif felt like a breath of fresh air filled with color — icy blue, mint green and lavender — and plenty of prettiness. His was a balanced approach executed with simple shapes and controlled effects. Structured shifts flaunted an architectural fold here, an asymmetric cut there. Some were splattered with graphic black-and-white prints, others came bathed in gentle watercolors. Throughout, polished tailoring played nicely against the undone attitude of oversize crinkled cashmeres, some slung with an extra set of sleeves tied round the neck for a twisted riff on the preppy staple.
Elsewhere, knits sported clever cutouts, as transparency was another big theme, a tricky one, too. But Kors handled it well, splicing dresses with clear strips of Perspex for a manageable, modified Mod feel. As he put it, “I’m convinced we will be the first to show transparency in a way women will want to wear it, not as runway ridiculousness.” And if not the first, he’s certainly one of the few.
In men’s, the brand abandoned its usual cast of international playboys and captains of industry in order to wave the flag of modernism. Some looks were cherry-picked from totems of that aesthetic, such as sleeveless blazers, elastic cinchers and colored or splattered suits. Two motifs explored more thoroughly were slashing, which looked great when executed with zippers all around a cashmere cardigan, and transparency. Gauzy pullovers and merino polos with sheer stripes were smartly wearable iterations of the transparent trend. A hoodie under a blazer — a Kors signature — this season morphed into a single piece, with the lapels of a crinkled wool blazer extending to form a hood, a reassuringly familiar sight.