A quick glance at the program uncovered Angela Missoni’s premise.“Fairy-tale creatures,” it read, “enchanting and enchanted fairies.”Indeed, the collection proved a wondrous flight of fancy, yet onewonderfully flush with gorgeous real-world clothes. Missoni’s dreamyreferences were everywhere, particularly in the color palette. Witheveryone jumping on the punchy brights bandwagon, she struck a bold movein choosing gentle pastels — sorbet yellow, lilac, blush pink, babyblue and popsicle orange, softened even further with an overarching dégradé motif. The embroideries, too, were sweetly charming, including oneadorable version featuring princesslike figures. (Some gals sportedcrowns; others, parasols.)

But Missoni kept things from veeringtoo saccharine with plenty of smart counterpoint. For starters, all themodels wore biker boots, albeit done in pretty suedes and snakeskin. Shealso cast everything in slouchy, boyish and street-urchin silhouettes,with ample strains of Nineties Seattle made delightfully upbeat. Pantscame baggy; loose jackets and shorts were in raw-edged bouclés. Theknits were extra exquisite this time, superbly chunky and oversize,tuck-stitched, intarsia-ed and lushly folded into basketweave patterns.And, as elsewhere, coats were standouts, especially the floor-sweepingversions in patchworks of colored snakeskin. What made this collectionso refreshing was the optimistic overhaul of the grunge. Then again,Missoni is no stranger to reinventing tradition. On that point, thehouse zigzags were reinterpreted here as a striking Norwegian pattern ona plush mink coat. Simply meraviglioso.

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