It was out there, no question. “This girl is a metropolitan heroine who has a fantasy of fusing herself with nature,” said Angela Missoni of her collection during a preview. “She’s rebirthing from the earth but sometimes she gets stuck.” The odds of that statement translating on the runway seemed slim, until Missoni proved it with a fantastic lineup that illustrated her dreamy vision with improbably wearable clothes.
It shouldn’t have been a surprise — fall is prime time for Missoni knits, here presented in remarkable fabrications, many of which are nearly impossible to explain, and narrow silhouettes that captured the urban sophistication Missoni was talking about. Slim pants, body-hugging dresses and pencil skirts with tight turtlenecks were the collection’s core, often topped by chunky cardigans or long woven coats for textured tailoring. The signature graphic mélanges and woven techniques came in earth and mineral tones — tawny brown, asphalt gray, red, crystal blue — creating a colorful look that wasn’t bright. Some of the patterns, gleaming with Lurex shine, were meant to resemble marble and bark, and they did, thankfully, without bearing too close a resemblance.
Though the earthy nature of the clothes was obvious, they were grounded in sleekness. Some of that was owed to impeccable styling — long leather gloves, skinny belts cinched under the bust, shoulders wound in tight ballerinalike wraps, shiny Latex turtlenecks and rich fur collars — that reeled everything in with polished control. As Missoni said, “You can’t let her dream too much or she’ll fly away.”