Next year, Missoni will celebrate its 60th anniversary. It’s a significant milestone, one that Angela Missoni was contemplating for spring, which will hit around the same time. “I wanted to go back to what I think the roots of Missoni are,” she said backstage postshow. But don’t think mélange knits. Instead, she looked to a white suit featured on the cover of French Elle in the mid-Sixties, one of the earliest memories she has of her parents’ fashion house.
She used the visual as a starting point — a smart move, because the collection she showed was terrific. Missoni reimagined the label’s cornerstone knits through interesting plays with layering and transparency, often veiling the pieces in soft organza for an ethereal effect. A short fitted dress in a patchwork of pink knits was visible under a looser one in pink organza, and a sequined sheer floor-length gown was shown over a white knit version that hugged the body.
Missoni’s strong eye for colors (often in gradations of greens and oranges), and her perfect sense of control, gave these clothes a certain allure. The swimwear enhanced that notion, i.e. a retro two-piece design worn under a signature Missoni knit one-piece, and a patterned cutout version under a sheer green dress. It was at once suggestive and proper.
Throughout, the designer demonstrated a lovely light hand, down to the final few black exits that included a cool short trapeze dress over a bodysuit — all with a slight futuristic vibe. Looks like Missoni is already thinking about the next 60 years.