Next year, Missoni will celebrate its 60th anniversary. It’s asignificant milestone, one that Angela Missoni was contemplating forspring, which will hit around the same time. “I wanted to go back towhat I think the roots of Missoni are,” she said backstage postshow. Butdon’t think mélange knits. Instead, she looked to a white suit featuredon the cover of French Elle in the mid-Sixties, one of the earliestmemories she has of her parents’ fashion house.

She used thevisual as a starting point — a smart move, because the collection sheshowed was terrific. Missoni reimagined the label’s cornerstone knitsthrough interesting plays with layering and transparency, often veilingthe pieces in soft organza for an ethereal effect. A short fitted dressin a patchwork of pink knits was visible under a looser one in pinkorganza, and a sequined sheer floor-length gown was shown over a whiteknit version that hugged the body.

Missoni’s strong eye forcolors (often in gradations of greens and oranges), and her perfectsense of control, gave these clothes a certain allure. The swimwearenhanced that notion, i.e. a retro two-piece design worn under asignature Missoni knit one-piece, and a patterned cutout version under asheer green dress. It was at once suggestive and proper.

Throughout, the designer demonstrated a lovely light hand, down to thefinal few black exits that included a cool short trapeze dress over abodysuit — all with a slight futuristic vibe. Looks like Missoni isalready thinking about the next 60 years.

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