Flames in the night sky. Seagulls circling choppy waters. For spring,Angela Missoni worked the four elements — water, earth, fire, air — forsome bold pattern play, packaged with a peripatetic theme, from Middleto Far East, that informed her silhouettes. All mixed together, theypulled Missoni into multiple directions.

The designer startedwith a striking sea motif, rendered, as she noted backstage before theshow, “like a Japanese comic.” A print on an asymmetric dress, a topwith a neckline folded origami style, and a sarong all worked into thetheme. It may have provided a strong visual, but the look was morechicly rendered when Missoni took a more abstract and subtle path, as inthe laser-engraved knitted black top teamed with a printed napa sarong.

Some in the audience saw a deeper subtext in these prints — away, perhaps, for the designer to creatively work through the tragicdisappearance of her brother Vittorio Missoni over the Venezuelan seasin January — but that was not the intention, according to the company.Missoni, for her part, had travel on her mind, which she explored viasari and caftan silhouettes, reworked in the house’s famously vibrantcolors. And her draped fringe dresses, in particular, will dazzle in anyexotic location.

While she translated the idea with energyand precision — no room for hippie excursions here — the strong designstatements left little room for that softer sense of romance associatedwith journeys to far-flung destinations.

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