The designer — whose focus has long been a woman’s curves and angles — seemed to want his woman to breathe a bit for spring, and what a refreshing exhale it was: His usual body-conscious silhouette gave way to a lovely softer, loose one, in fluid fabrics that worked in several of his characteristic details.


Dresses started narrow at the torso, with racer-back and cutout panel detailing, and then floated down in a boxlike shape; skirts had pockets and wafted around the knees, cut on the bias. Exposed zippers — both front and back — and colored piping (in red and flax) streamlined some of the gentle shapes, and a series of narrow mudcloth coats seemed ready-made for both a city or country walk (or perhaps an official First Lady visit).


Rather than sleek, the collection’s look was earthy, which is not to say crunchy: Fabrics were linen and canvas, silk and jacquard, in a palette that ranged from sand to ivory to deep brown; prints, as bodice panels in a few familiar shifts, included green-and-black tree branches and navy-and-white raindrops. The overall effect was a breezy, refined affair, captivating in its much gentler embrace of all those contours.

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