The first model out at Narciso Rodriguez, wearing a bias-cut linen canvas sheath, laid out his spring premise quite clearly: long, lean silhouettes and a spotlight on feminine tailoring. Then she turned around, flashing a surprising peek of lingerie strap across the back, in blush-colored silk. The two-prong proposal now? Rodriguez’s savvy tailoring played against and tempered by gentle boudoir motifs.


What followed quietly, but powerfully, pushed those ideas, whether in a hybrid dress of sensible skirt-meets-drapy silk tank or a spare collarless coat tossed over a simple slipdress. Jackets, including a terrific waxed linen blazer with long lapels, came with softly rounded shoulders — they made a great argument for retiring all those aggressively shouldered power suits. Meanwhile, the innerwear riffs continued on the veiling throughout, from sheer panels patchworked into garments or extra overlays on dresses for an elegant, layered effect. From afar, not to mention when seen on a computer screen, everything looked completely simple and demure — plain even. But it takes a close look to appreciate the designer’s ways with innovative construction: architectural seaming, curved hems and contours, which made for a — no pun intended — intimate yet studied allure.

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