Backstage before the show, Narciso Rodriguez was in good spirits,exuding calm and confidence. And with good reason — he was about todeliver a beautiful collection of spare silhouettes, exquisite cuts andcolorful graphics that, while artsy, were executed with a perfect senseof control.

Rodriguez used his strong fall collection, which featuredcollaging techniques, as a starting point for spring. This time hefurthered his play on construction. “I was looking at the way themasters — Vionnet and Balenciaga — cut on the bias, then translatingthat into something modern,” he said. His versions had a lovelyfluidity, and while many of the cuts were complicated, they never lookedheavy-handed or tricky.

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