Chic modernity is what Narciso Rodriguez’s work is all about. The spring collection he showed on Tuesday night continued his recent string of exquisite expressions of that ethos. This time, he outdid himself with a stunner that highlighted his masterful plays on fabric and cut.
“I was thinking about very rich textures and many new ways of treating materials,” Rodriguez said backstage before the show, which powerfully evolved from resort’s gorgeous laser-cut and chiffon-bonded lace. “I took the idea forward, but into different places, like bonded and laminated materials used on the reverse.”
Complex as the ideas may sound, the designer delivered them with thoughtfulness. For example, a precisely tailored white wool-and-silk jacket featured a cool laminated black inset and was paired black laminated wool shorts. The lines were architectural, but the effect had none of the severe connotations that can come with such graphic precision.
Rodriguez’s materials play added a new sense of richness to his work. A shimmery copper jacquard for a sexy shift read like a deep brocade but never looked ostentatious. Instead, its soft, almost muted quality exuded an alluring serenity. The same could be said for the pretty silk chiffon dress with laser-cut chiffon, charmeuse and silver laminate florals bonded to it, with enough transparency to reveal the bold bra top and briefs underneath. The look was at once sweet and sexy, striking for its apparent simplicity yet was really anything but.
Throughout, Rodriguez proved that he still has a lot to say about structure and minimalism, and even his busier looks — a top embroidered with dangling beaded strings, for one — demonstrated calm and grace. At the end of the show, the usually reserved designer stepped out and walked down the runway further than he typically does, and with noticeable swagger. The confidence spoke volumes.