What exactly is a “designer in residence”? You may have found yourself wondering that about three weeks ago, when WWD broke the news that Oscar de la Renta had invited John Galliano to join his studio insaid role. During a preview of his fall collection last week, de laRenta defined Galliano’s presence only in vague terms with no word onthe length of the arrangement. “He has been working with me,” said de laRenta of Galliano, who was working that day, but avoided the studioduring the preview. “I work with people. I don’t work by myself. It’s sowonderful to have somebody with an eye. He’ll show me something and wetalk about it.”
Despite numerous rumors about Galliano’s presenceat de la Renta’s show on Tuesday evening — he would sit front row; hewould join de la Renta for the bow — Galliano stayed backstage and outof sight. Still, his presence was felt. Perhaps it was the power ofsuggestion, but the opening sequence of wrap coats and jackets worn overslim, knee-length skirts seemed descended from the house of Dior, wherethe Bar jacket, with its nipped waist and sculpted peplum, was aperennial focus. The de la Renta versions in eggplant flannel, teal andblack were stripped down, cut in lean lines with a dose of melancholyedge. Some of the girls wore streamlined cloche hats and one jacket camein black leather, expertly draped and folded at the waist with a hintof origami technique.
A departure from the girly froth and funthat de la Renta has pursued the past few seasons — no question. Yetmany looks were devout to de la Renta’s canon, such as a fit-and-flareblack silk organza dress with white floral embroidery, and the fullybeaded silver T-shirt and skirt worn by Lindsey Wixon. As the showprogressed, the lineup seemed to tell a story. While not a traditionalnarrative per se, it moved from shadowy elegance — hooded capes wornover skinny leather pants — to romantic-yet-bold toile motifs on A-lineskirts and dresses.
Then came evening. Beginning with the chicand spare — a black jacket worn over a naked torso and fluidfloor-length skirt — the story built into a world of color withjewel-toned dresses and gorgeous ballgowns in vivid silk faille, theirskirt volumes tempered into perfect modern lines. The show’s beauty wastelling, too. While typically de la Renta favors a single classic,pretty look, here, it changed with the clothes. The first girls out wereplainfaced but for the shock of orange lipstick; those done up forevening wore lavish, dark-eyed makeup and hair greased into waves, alook that might have been transplanted from a Galliano runway of yore.So what was the plot line? A tale of two designers, it had mystery,suspense, harmony, beauty, optimism — and some truly great clothes.
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye