The lady wore latex. The shiny top Karlie Kloss sported with her prim pencil skirt and blazer to open Oscar de la Renta’s show was indeed made from the material most associated with the bedroom and operating room. Chic rather than subversive, it showed up again on a slick emerald-green tank and pencil skirt worn — in a glorious color combination — under a hot pink silk faille jacket embroidered with black tassels. The models came out in edgy, laser-cut booties, their hair swept into messy beehives streaked with pink, yellow and blue. De la Renta is no punk; he was just having a little fun with a collection that was otherwise purely pretty and wonderfully grand.
Though rambling at times (as a 60-look show is wont to do), the stock was solid, with exquisite treatments at every turn. Daywear was a relative term here, considering all the lavish embellishment. A belted ivory linen jacket and matching skirt were trimmed in leather macramé that looked like lace. A white floral guipure jacket was done in a black graffiti treatment and worn over a tweed skirt. There was even a hot-pink Persian lamb skirt-suit. Then, for evening an array of stunners, from a swank black-and-white column slit to there to a strapless, tea-length style done in layers of aquamarine tulle and embroidered with cherry blossoms in pink feathers. With the classic de la Renta customer well accounted for, the designer was free to court a younger, more playful contingent. Cue Cara Delevingne in a hot pink bustier with a feathered peplum that fanned out like wings over a pair of cocktail shorts.