The lady wore latex. The shiny top Karlie Kloss sported with her primpencil skirt and blazer to open Oscar de la Renta’s show was indeedmade from the material most associated with the bedroom and operatingroom. Chic rather than subversive, it showed up again on a slickemerald-green tank and pencil skirt worn — in a glorious colorcombination — under a hot pink silk faille jacket embroidered with blacktassels. The models came out in edgy, laser-cut booties, their hairswept into messy beehives streaked with pink, yellow and blue. De laRenta is no punk; he was just having a little fun with a collection thatwas otherwise purely pretty and wonderfully grand.


Though rambling at times (as a 60-look show is wont to do), thestock was solid, with exquisite treatments at every turn. Daywear was arelative term here, considering all the lavish embellishment. A beltedivory linen jacket and matching skirt were trimmed in leather macraméthat looked like lace. A white floral guipure jacket was done in a blackgraffiti treatment and worn over a tweed skirt. There was even ahot-pink Persian lamb skirt-suit. Then, for evening an array ofstunners, from a swank black-and-white column slit to there to astrapless, tea-length style done in layers of aquamarine tulle andembroidered with cherry blossoms in pink feathers. With the classic dela Renta customer well accounted for, the designer was free to court ayounger, more playful contingent. Cue Cara Delevingne in a hot pinkbustier with a feathered peplum that fanned out like wings over a pairof cocktail shorts.

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