Inspiration backstory — no designer should be caught without one at collections time. The sound bites offered on a seasonal basis range from the general — “confidence,” “pantsuits,” etc. — to the hyper-specific, which is where Prabal Gurung tends. He practically optioned the rights to a story he read in Time Magazine’s “The Best Inventions of 2012,” a piece about the U.S. military testing body armor specifically designed for women since the men’s gear they’ve been using is too big for 85 percent of female troops. “It came back to this idea of empowerment,” said Gurung during a preview. “Traditionally, we tend to look at men’s uniforms and then redesign, but this was very much focused on women.” He feminized the classic army tropes of olive green and navy tailoring aggressively and inventively, slimming the cuts, accentuating waistlines with belts and leather harnesses, and topping off daywear with tufts of white fur. Chunky knits and slinky satin skirts and blouses featured fleshy cutouts and epaulet details. Skirts were shown with thigh-high footwear that approximated leg braces. This was sex appeal as brute force.
As a collection, it presented a strong look that was focused and at its most personal when he incorporated notes of his Nepalese heritage into the picture. Some of the tailored pieces featured beautiful black-and-crimson brocade details, and a red folkloric jacquard traced a slim, cutaway denim skirt.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)