Mustang is a tiny, former kingdom (now a republic) in the Himalayas that remained closed to foreign visitors until 1992. Prabal Gurung paid a visit there on a recent trip home to Nepal and was struck by the region’s traditional culture and serenity, which he channeled into his fall collection. Perhaps due in part to familiarity with the source material, Gurung displayed a deeper level of comfort and confidence with these clothes than he has in the past. The collection was one of his best.
Since launching his own line, Gurung has cited “femininity with a bite” as his creative mantra, often yielding edgy, aggressive takes on feminine allure. This time, he infused his lineup with a refreshing sense of ease beginning with beautiful melange knits — capes and trapeze shapes — elegantly bundled with scarves and gorgeous, crafty Mongolian lamb coats worn over draped chiffon skirts. Nepal provided more than inspiration — some of the cashmeres were produced there.
There was balance to everything, whether the fluidity and structure of tailored jackets and pants laced with draped satin panels, or the drama and softness of sultry cocktail dresses and gowns embellished with mosaic crystals and ostrich feathers.
Done in warm colors, such as crimson and orange, the finale was romantic and racy: Dresses came with precision cutouts that offered a glimpse of flesh and the bite that Gurung can’t resist.