“If you see a woman in a beautiful chiffon dress and she turns aroundand gives you a hint of harness, that’s my woman,” said Prabal Gurungduring a preview. He did more than just imagine that customer forspring; he created her in a wonderful synergy of bold color, technicalexperimentation and ambition, with a baseline of classic 1950s elegance.The result was a very modern take on womanly traditions, or in Gurung’swords, “femininity with a bite.”  

His mood board was filled with images from Bert Stern’s “LastSitting” with Marilyn Monroe, including the soft-focus nudes of herholding strategically placed roses and a Fifties-era image of threewomen wearing blue, red and yellow coats. Not on the wall, but perhapsin the air, was a whiff of Raf Simons’ recent work at Dior. Still,Gurung’s colors, the roses and the Marilyn-esque glamour were allimaginatively retooled throughout the collection, which opened with themodels lined up behind clear plastic walls.

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