Prada RTW Spring 2010

Miuccia Prada's collection was an inviting palate-cleanser concocted from beloved motifs — something that felt familiar yet fresh.

Giant projections of chandeliers fading into doorways fading into beaches fading into more chandeliers and more doorways. For Miuccia Prada, such imagery set the tone for a fashion locale situated somewhere “between reality and fantasy.” It’s a place where postmodern Bardot types stroll around in Bermudas under couture-inspired coats with raw edges and scuba whites under chandelier pinafores. Crystals spill over shoes and handbags, and, if a girl prefers briefs to real pants, well, she’s got the legs for them. Yet if it all sounds like youth, beauty and not-quite-innocence, stop there, as this lineup pulsed with the iron grip of the designer’s womanly control.


In a vacuum, this was a beautiful, focused collection. Chez Prada, it made for an inviting palate-cleanser concocted from beloved motifs — tailored, tacky, minimal, decorated, even a beachy postcard or several, cousins to that scenic-print outing of yore — into something that felt familiar yet fresh. Most significantly, it felt like a bridge to somewhere else. After last season’s Forties’ tour de force, which itself followed a series of major statement shows, Prada here offered what soon might prove to have been a calming interlude between major moments. She is one of the few designers working today who can whip such a transition into genuine fashion.

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